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Clementine's branches out
By MIKE HALE
Monterey Herald, January 29, 2004
tablefortwo@sbcglobal.net

It didn't taken long for David Babcock and Drew Chemoy to put their stamp on the local culinary scene.

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Clementine's Kitchen in Monterey has become a huge success, spending its first year focusing on retail kitchen tools and accoutrements, and cooking classes. Now in its second year, Clementine's has branched out into the in-house food business. The Cafe at Clementine's opened last November as part of an expansion in its building at the Stone Creek Shopping Village on Canyon Del Rey Boulevard.

Babcock, a graduate of the Cordon Bleu in Paris and a former instructor at the California Culinary Academy, says the idea for the cafe was part of a natural progression for the business. Babcock and Chemoy wanted to offer an alternative to the fast-food-heavy shopping village.

"We wanted to be able to offer good quality at a decent price," Babcock said. "A place where you can have real coffee with a cup and saucer, or eat on a real plate with a metal fork."

Making a light-hearted jab at neighbors Jack in the Box, Quiznos, 7-Eleven and Starbucks, Babcock does have a point. While the offerings are still limited (Babcock plans to add soup and eventually salads to the menu), the sandwich, quiche, bread, pastry and coffee house does provide a more upscale experience.

• On the plate:Clementine's (named after Babcock's Jack Russell Terrier), has partnered with Jon Lusseau of Parker-Lusseau Pastries in Monterey for many of its items, including the gourmet, packaged sandwiches.

We tried the ham and brie on a baguette ($5.75) and the bacon, lettuce and tomato on a foccacia square ($5.75) and both passed muster. The ham and brie came with light mayo and crispy Romaine strips, a sure sign of freshness, but beware that the sweet baguette, although deliciouis, is very chewy. An elderly woman next to us struggled for some time before giving up. The BLT was standard, although the bacon was extra lean and smoky. Another interesting combinatoin was curried tuna with curried mayo and golden raisins on a croissant ($4.25). We ordered two bags of tortilla chips and at $2 each we felt a bit gypped.

The mini quiches (choice among Lorraine, spinach, salmon or leek) looked very appetizing but a bit pricey ($4.95) relative to the size. We will wait in earnest for the soups and salads.

• Thirst quenchers: Clementine's has provided a very diverse and unique collection of beverages, including several local offerings such as Sparky's Root Beer and Ginger People ginger ale. There's also something called Honest Tea, a caffeine-free, fruit-infused bottled team ($1.89).

The Kombucha Wonder Drink (we tried asian pear, ginger blend) is touted to have discovered in huts and villages throughout Asia. Kombucha is known around the world for its reported health benefits.

Clementine's is also one of less than 100 retailers to carry Mariage Freres Tea by the bag and offers a full coffee and espresso bar.

• Sweet tooth:Clementine's has an assortment of tarts, danishes, turnovers, petit fours and brioche loaves. We passed (sorry) but if they taste anything like they look, we did the right thing to remain in our current set of clothes.

• Bottom line:Clementine's is on the right track with a delicious beginning but must expand its menu to create a full-service Tenspot.GO!