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In the News Archive Make the cutKnives are such an integral part of the kitchen that local chefs offer classes on the subject By BRENDA MOORE bmoore@montereyherald.com Chef David Babcock's collection of kitchen cutting tools includes a plastic $3 vegetable peeler and a $450 ceramic-blade knife -- and he uses both regularly. That's one key Babcock stresses when helping people figure out how to outfit their kitchens with knives: Buy what you'll use.
Knives are such a perplexing and important tool that chefs often offer classes on the subject. Clementine's held a session on Saturday. Eddison & Melrose in Sand City, owned by chef and caterer Karen Anne Murray, has one scheduled today by Bay Area chef and consultant Charlie Vollmar. The introduction in Clementine's class syllabus makes clear the exalted position knives should -- but don't always -- hold in our kitchens: "Knives, considered the most valuable tool of our profession, are often taken for granted and sometimes even abused." How do we mistreat them? We use one knife for multiple purposes, from carving a roast to cutting twine, from dicing to slicing, no matter its specific, intended use. They seldom get sharpened. They're often dropped into catchall kitchen drawers, buried under piles of other utensils and rooted out when needed. Why should we abandon those practices? "The basic care and use of the knife not only prolongs its life," the syllabus continues, "but also affects the final food product in both texture and flavor." Think symmetry on your hors d'oeuvres plate. Chicken pieces that are still recognizable when they reach the table. Lettuce whose edges don't brown from a reaction from the knife. Food that cooks evenly because the pieces are uniform. Where to begin? Knife shopping and care can seem overwhelming, given all the choices. Though variables mean there is no single style that is right for everyone, in general Babcock recommends: -Buy knives that are hand-forged rather than stamped from sheets of steel. -Choose blades made of high-carbon stainless steel, which hold an edge better than regular stainless steel and don't react to foods or corrode. -Shop for handles that are comfortable, sturdy and balance the weight of the blade. The tang, or part of the knife that attaches to the handle, should extend the length and width of the handle and be secured by rivets. To determine which knives a customer will most need and use, Babcock takes a personal inventory. Among the questions he'll probably ask: How many people are in the household? How much cooking is done? What kinds of foods are most commonly prepared and eaten? Vegetarians or meat eaters? (Important for knowing, for example, whether the buyer needs a boning knife.) How much do they want to spend? He'll also take note of the size of the chef to help determine the size of the knives. Though Babcock has more knives than he can count, he said most kitchens can get by on much smaller collections. "You only need four or five really good knives," he said. His starter set would include three knives: -A chef's knife, considered the most versatile cutting tool. Its long, wide, tapered blade is good for cutting, chopping, shredding and dicing. -A paring knife, a smaller knife with a short, narrow blade good forpeeling, slicing, trimming and dicing. -A bird's beak, a small knife with a curved blade ideal for peeling fruits and vegetables. Purchases beyond that would be more specific to the needs of the chef. For some, that might mean a bread knife, whose scalloped blade prevents breads and cakes from crumbling as they're cut. For others, whose diet might lean heavily toward poultry and roasts, a boning knife would be a good addition to help cut close to the bone. Not everything has to be expensive to be useful. Babcock has a pile of cheap vegetable peelers that he regularly relies on. When they get dull, he simply tosses them and buys more. Given his profession, he also has many high-end cutting tools, including the $450 ceramic knife, whose blade is so sharp it slides through paper. "When I was given this knife I had scary dreams about it cutting my finger off," he said. That hasn't happened, but he was sporting a bandage from a little nip on his index finger. One thing he does recommend everyone invest in - and then actually use -- is a sharpening system. The second mistake people make after buying a butcher-block set of knives is not using the sharpening tool, called a steel, that almost always comes with it. Knives should be sharpened after every three or four uses, he said, not when they seem to "need" it. By then,he said, it's usually too late. Sharpeners range from stones to steels to toolbox-like contraptions. Some work better than others, but the key is actually using one, Babcock said. "Leave it on the counter" as a reminder, he recommended. Knife know-how Knives, for the most part, are made through two processes: -Stamped: Automation is used to cut the shape of the knife blade from a sheet of steel, then grind, temper, polish and finish it. -Hand-forged: The metal is heated and poured into molds, then hammered into the desired shape. Blades generally are made from these materials: -Carbon steel: Holds an excellent edge but corrodes and reacts to high-acid foods. Softer than high-carbon stainless steel and easier to sharpen. -Stainless steel: Resists corrosion but does not hold an edge. Does not react to foods or corrode. -High-carbon stainless steel: Holds an edge better than regular stainless steel and does not react to foods or corrode. -Super-stainless alloy steel: Very hard. Holds an edge for a longer period but due to its hardness is almost impossible to sharpen. -Ceramic: Relatively new in knives and used only for slicing. Creates a smoother cutting edge than top-rated stainless steel knives. Needs sharpening less often, but must be done by the manufacturer. Doesn't corrode or react to food. May shatter if dropped. -- Clementine's Kitchen |